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Evaluation of physicochemical and application properties of cosmetic formulations containing jasmonates together with assessment of kinetics of their diffusion trough skin imitatating barriers

Alicja Śliwowska

Abstract

Jasmonates, plant hormones that exhibit therapeutic activity, are novelty in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. The main aim of the doctoral dissertation presented was to develop and analyze new formulations containing jasmonic acid (JA) and its derivatives such as methyl jasmonate (MeJ) and methyl dihydrojasmonate (MeDHJ). An attempt was also made to design new derivatives of jasmonic acid in the form of its conjugates with selected tetrapeptides (JA-YPFF-NH2 and JA-YYKS-NH2) as well as to determine their biological activity in vivo. Another objective of this PhD thesis was to evaluate the potential use of new formulations containing jasmonic acid and its derivatives in skin care. Organoleptic assessments as well as microscopic analysis of obtained products were performed. Moreover, the stability of these formulations was determined using thermogravimetric analysis (thermal stability) as well as multiple light scattering and laser diffraction techniques (stability over time). To investigate the stability of jasmonates in the prepared products, the methodology for analysis of their stability using high performance liquid chromatography was developed. The release studies of jasmonates from prepared formulations through semipermeable synthetic membranes in vitro were also performed. Moreover, the effectiveness of the prepared products in in vivo studies on human volunteers was investigated as well. The results of the studies performed as a part of presented doctoral thesis proved that jasmonic acid and its derivatives might be interesting ingredients for cosmetic industry.
Record ID
UAMc4f10a9504dc4c28bd2092992f28d071
Diploma type
Doctor of Philosophy
Author
Alicja Śliwowska (SNŚ/WC/FoC) Alicja Śliwowska,,
Title in Polish
Badanie właściwości fizykochemicznych i aplikacyjnych formulacji kosmetycznych zawierających jasmonidy wraz z oceną kinetyki ich przeniakania przez bariery imitujące skórę
Title in English
Evaluation of physicochemical and application properties of cosmetic formulations containing jasmonates together with assessment of kinetics of their diffusion trough skin imitatating barriers
Language
pl Polish
Certifying Unit
Faculty of Chemistry (SNŚ/WC/FoC)
Discipline
chemistry / (chemical sciences domain) / (physical sciences)
Scientific discipline (2.0)
6.5 chemical sciences
Defense Date
11-12-2017
End date
11-12-2017
Supervisor
URL
http://hdl.handle.net/10593/20727 opening in a new tab
Keywords in English
jasmonates, conjugates, cosmetic formulations, stability of cosmetic products, assessment of kinetics of jasmonates diffusion from formulations in vitro
Abstract in English
Jasmonates, plant hormones that exhibit therapeutic activity, are novelty in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. The main aim of the doctoral dissertation presented was to develop and analyze new formulations containing jasmonic acid (JA) and its derivatives such as methyl jasmonate (MeJ) and methyl dihydrojasmonate (MeDHJ). An attempt was also made to design new derivatives of jasmonic acid in the form of its conjugates with selected tetrapeptides (JA-YPFF-NH2 and JA-YYKS-NH2) as well as to determine their biological activity in vivo. Another objective of this PhD thesis was to evaluate the potential use of new formulations containing jasmonic acid and its derivatives in skin care. Organoleptic assessments as well as microscopic analysis of obtained products were performed. Moreover, the stability of these formulations was determined using thermogravimetric analysis (thermal stability) as well as multiple light scattering and laser diffraction techniques (stability over time). To investigate the stability of jasmonates in the prepared products, the methodology for analysis of their stability using high performance liquid chromatography was developed. The release studies of jasmonates from prepared formulations through semipermeable synthetic membranes in vitro were also performed. Moreover, the effectiveness of the prepared products in in vivo studies on human volunteers was investigated as well. The results of the studies performed as a part of presented doctoral thesis proved that jasmonic acid and its derivatives might be interesting ingredients for cosmetic industry.
Thesis file

Uniform Resource Identifier
https://researchportal.amu.edu.pl/info/phd/UAMc4f10a9504dc4c28bd2092992f28d071/

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